Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by **f3rr37** » 21 Aug 2008, 17:09

Here is a list of recommended equipment for reloading the 5.7x28mm cartridge.

Presses:
Dillon 550B
Lee Challenger Press Kit
Lee Classic Cast Single Stage Press
Lee Turret Press
RCBS Rock Chucker Single Stage Press
RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Reloading Kit

Press Accessories:

Dies:
Lee Custom 5.7x28mm dies (available here: http://57forum.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=29" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
Hornady Custom Grade New Dimension Dies 5.7x28
Lyman 3-Die Set 5.7x28mm FN
Redding 2-Die Set 5.7x28mm FN
Redding 3-Die Set 5.7x28mm FN

Shell Holders:
Dillon 550B Shell Plate available from Elite Ammunition – Special Order
Hornady #37 Shell Holder
Lee auto prime 5.7x28 (#15) Note: must be filed down significantly to get it to fit into the auto prime
Lyman Shellholder #35(5.7x28mm FN)
RCBS Shellholder #45
RCBS Extended Shellholder #45

Trimmers:
Lee Case Length Gage for Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud Note: Shell holder must be filed down significantly for shell to fit
Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud
RCBS Trim Pro Manual Case Trimmer
Shell Holder for RCBS Trim Pro Case Trimmer available from Elite Ammunition – Special Order

Priming Tools:
Lee AutoPrime Shellholder for 5.7X28/.25ACP
Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool
RCBS Hand Priming Tool (requires shell holder #45)

Primers:
CCI400 Small Rifle Primers
Winchester Small Rifle Primers
Magtech Small Pistol Primers
?Winchester Small Magnum Pistol Primers? Can someone confirm this please

Bullets:
Barnes .224 36gr Varmint Grenades
Hornady .224 40gr V-Max Poly Tip(bullet used in SS197SR round)
Hornady .224 55gr FMJ-BT
Montana Gold Bullet Company 55gr FMJ-BT
Nosler Ballistic Tip Varmint Bullets 22 Caliber (224 Diameter) 40 Grain
Sierra HP 53 grain spitzers
Sierra SP Hornet 40gr and 45gr
Winchester PSP 50gr

Powders:

Accurate #5
Accurate #7 powders
Hodgdon HS6
Ramshot Silhouette
Ramshot TrueBlue

Tumblers:
Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler
RCBS Sidewinder Rotary Case Cleaner
Thumbler’s Tumbler Model
Ultrasonic Cleaners - Available online or at Harbor Freight Tools. A 2+ quart capacity is recommended.
Note: The 5.7X28 case is lacquer coated and that coating can be damaged if cleaned in a vibratory case cleaner with dry media such as ground corn cob or walnut hull. Hand wash in a plastic container or rotary tumble in a solution of Simple Green or dish washing liquid.

Cleaning Solutions:
Simple Green

Contributors:
Grantness
Wollychop
f3rr37
Medula Oblongata
*Please let me know if you contributed to this list so I can add you name here*

*Admins/Mods* Please keep this thread clean of comments. Users can request items to be added to the list here, but please delete them once they have been denied or accepted.

Post by **f3rr37** » 28 Aug 2008, 09:01

Thanks guys, additions made to list.

Post by **Grantness** » 28 Aug 2008, 09:42

As far as I can tell, the shells fit fine in the Lee shellholder for both the trimmer/case length gage & auto prime. Its the shellholder itself that doesnt fit into the Auto Prime until you file it down.

Might also want to add HS6 and silhouette (sp?) to the list of powders.

Post by **f3rr37** » 28 Aug 2008, 09:47

I know the one that comes with the trimmer/case length gauge has to be modified for the shell to fit in.

Wollychop · Post by **Wollychop** » 28 Aug 2008, 09:48

What about adding HS6 to the powders?

Post by **Grantness** » 28 Aug 2008, 09:55

The shells fit in the shellholder for the case length gage/trimmer....at least I have had no problems with mine.

Post by **f3rr37** » 28 Aug 2008, 10:00

Grantness wrote:The shells fit in the shellholder for the case length gage/trimmer....at least I have had no problems with mine.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=266946" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; That? I had to use a dremel to open up the mouth for the case to slip in.

Post by **Grantness** » 28 Aug 2008, 10:12

yep...it worked great right out of the box.

The autoprime shellholder, on the other hand, is another story. I filed it down and still had to hammer it into the Auto Prime. Now its stuck, cant get it out. Cant get it all the way in either...the priming ram rubs up against the rear of the shellholder opening. Its supposed to float in the middle right?

abatis · Post by **abatis** » 28 Aug 2008, 10:36

I also like the Lee Adjustable Charge Bar for getting very getting good powder charges with the True Blue. Works nice on the Lee Turret.

Infinitely adjustable between .28 and 1.6 cc. Lifetime nylon with solid brass, zero backlash micrometer. Easy to set. Lee Adjustable Charge Bar90792

SSBiggun · Post by **SSBiggun** » 01 Sep 2008, 11:02

I just wanted to add the Berger 30gr hp to the list as its one of my favorite's

stateofbliss · Post by **stateofbliss** » 15 Sep 2008, 21:09

abatis wrote:I also like the Lee Adjustable Charge Bar for getting very getting good powder charges with the True Blue. Works nice on the Lee Turret.

Infinitely adjustable between .28 and 1.6 cc. Lifetime nylon with solid brass, zero backlash micrometer. Easy to set. Lee Adjustable Charge Bar90792

Can I get a verification on that lifetime? Lee mentions a 2 yr but naught beyond that. Otherwise it would be a Dillon?

Delete this post once that is verified, resolved & if need be, edited? :cya:

Walkalong · Post by **Walkalong** » 07 Jan 2009, 15:32

This may be old news, but I just found out the Lyman shell holder will NOT fit in the RCBS hand priming tool. Fortunately I was able to prime on my RCBS Partner press. I'll just have to get another shell holder.

The RCBS #3 collet for their trimmer supposedly does .25 ACP, which should work for 5.7 X 28, but my #3 collet won't do either.

SSBiggun · Post by **SSBiggun** » 26 Jan 2009, 18:41

Walkalong wrote:This may be old news, but I just found out the Lyman shell holder will NOT fit in the RCBS hand priming tool. Fortunately I was able to prime on my RCBS Partner press. I'll just have to get another shell holder.

The RCBS #3 collet for their trimmer supposedly does .25 ACP, which should work for 5.7 X 28, but my #3 collet won't do either.

RCBS makes a #4 collet just for the 5.7. I know cause thats what I use. Slow= yes
The EA trimmer shell plate is much better and faster and is on my list of things to get but I need to get the quick lever arm adaptor too.

p.s. who trims 25 ACP?

Post by **panzermk2** » 26 Jan 2009, 21:57

SSBiggun wrote:
p.s. who trims 25 ACP?

People with no Life.

Rodentman · Post by **Rodentman** » 13 Feb 2009, 18:07

I am new to reloading and I am confused. I just bought a Midway # 709779 Auto Prime shellholder #15 and it slides right into my Auto Prime tool no issue, and the cases fit into it OK too.

I am just stocking up on parts now until I get my bench built. I'll probably start on .38 and .40 and simpler stuff before I get into the 5.7, but I want to learn all I can about reloading it, and for me the #15 shellholder works fine. Am I not understanding what you guys are saying???

Post by **Grantness** » 13 Feb 2009, 20:27

Sometimes Lee can get the machine work correct, other nots. Mine is awful and had to be filed down, and still dosnt work half the time. I stopped using the autoprime for 5.7x28...

Their 5.7x28 shellholders suck. I just bought a RCBS #45 and was amazed that I didnt have to hold the round straight up when operating my press.

Rodentman · Post by **Rodentman** » 14 Feb 2009, 06:00

Yeah, I see what you mean that the case wobbles somewhat. As a noob to reloading it's hard for me know what is normal, except I know that I myself am not. Actually I did some reloading back in the 70's at a mom and pop gunshop, the best kind. If you bought the bullets, powder, and primers from them you could use their equipment, and best of all they would help you with their experience.

Post by **jmz5** » 14 Feb 2009, 06:10

I really like using the autoprime.

skip57PS90 · Post by **skip57PS90** » 15 Feb 2009, 07:25

I am new to the forum and the 5.7 world. I have been reloading other calibers for quite a while and all my dies are from RCBS. Has anyone had bad luck with RCBS dies in this caliber?

gw45acp · Post by **gw45acp** » 15 Feb 2009, 07:34

Welcome to the forum skip. I don't use RCBS for 5.7, but there are a lot of people who do. The reviews are mixed. Search the threads on RCBS dies. The premier supplier (Elite) of premium quality 5.7 ammo uses Lee dies. I use Hornady dies and I am very pleased with them. Hornady works well if you are going to be loading a lot of flat based bullets.

skip57PS90 · Post by **skip57PS90** » 15 Feb 2009, 14:14

Thanks for the insight and quick reply. I will look into another brand for the 5.7 dies for my Dillon.

Post by **jmz5** » 15 Feb 2009, 15:48

I have tried RCBS, didn't like it, now use Hornady.

stateofbliss · Post by **stateofbliss** » 16 Feb 2009, 17:51

RCBS offers a SMALL Base Die set PN 11703 that you should positively NOT use. They had the wrong thing in mind when they made that set. Personally, I am leaning towards the Lee Dies. But they must be inspected for the correct length bullet seater and a general clean-up buffing/polishing.

I contracted Lee for a batch of 3 dies set, to include an FC die. They nixed on the FC Die. The second batch had issues. But, that's why you can now buy the dies directly from Lee.

BTW, what reloader are you using?

skip57PS90 · Post by **skip57PS90** » 17 Feb 2009, 01:55

Thanks for feedback. I was wondering if the small base set was the correct choice. Now that is off the option list.

I am not clear on your comment regarding the "second batch" of Lee dies. Is there an issue with Lee also?

Dillion 550 for mass production and an RCBS Big Max for individual loads

stateofbliss · Post by **stateofbliss** » 26 Feb 2009, 14:14

The second batch had a .22 Hornet seating plug instead of the shorter .57x28. Lee sent/sends out free replacements though.

That was the only issue I was aware of. Remember to clean and polish, if needed, any die set you use (don't try 'out of the box').

Post by **Cyberfly** » 26 Feb 2009, 20:02

Clean and polish?
Hmmm. I just got a new set of Lee dies for .223...I guess I got some studying to do. My 5.7 dies were used so they should be good to go.

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » 26 Aug 2009, 02:40

Did not notice the HORNADY LOCK-N-LOAD AP listed but since they make a set of dies and shell holder I am guessing it can be used? Does anyone here have experience with this model? Thanks.
I am new to this Forum and reloading but thinking of taking up reloading the .223/5.56 and 5.7x28 cartridges. Unfortunately I have no one I know that reloads that could mentor me, so I will have to depend on information like this and DVDs.

The Keymaster · Post by **The Keymaster** » 26 Aug 2009, 02:53

Take a look at this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4919" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It will give you some important information on the LNL AP. If you want to go further with the discussion, post in the thread, and I will do what I can for you. As far as the loads go, check out the FiveSeven wiki as a start, and do a lot of searching and reading on the forum. There is a wealth of information here. Welcome to the forum.

ReadMore-SpeakLess · Post by **ReadMore-SpeakLess** » 01 Sep 2009, 06:58

Question for state of bliss:

What product do you use to clean your dies out-of-the-box? Is this a step you would recommend periodically on used dies, or is the lube from resized cases enough to keep the dies in shape?

Thanks!
RM

gw45acp · Post by **gw45acp** » 01 Sep 2009, 09:47

I don't know how state of bliss cleans dies, but brake cleaner is the best and lowest cost way to clean dies. A blast of Hornady One Shot case lube in the size die is recommended. To store them, a light coating of gun oil works fine as long as you use the brake cleaner to remove it before the next use.

ReadMore-SpeakLess · Post by **ReadMore-SpeakLess** » 01 Sep 2009, 10:32

Well, whaddayaknow bout that. :cya: Brake cleaner. I'm still trolling around picking up tips on reloading this round before I get started. And I'm real glad I learned about this, for all my dies, past and future. Thanks, gw45acp :thumb:

stonebroco · Post by **stonebroco** » 28 Sep 2009, 12:05

Can lyman presses be used?

gw45acp · Post by **gw45acp** » 28 Sep 2009, 12:18

Any single stage press should work just fine, Lyman included.

MikeS · Post by **MikeS** » 21 Oct 2009, 18:32

What is the opinion of the Lyman 3 die set?

Post by **Grantness** » 21 Oct 2009, 21:04

I think someone had a set of Lymans recently that were too tight. I've never heard any complaints about Lee (which I use) or Hornady sets. You really only need a full length size die and a bullet seating anyways...

Post by **panzermk2** » 22 Oct 2009, 11:43

LEE :thumb:

MikeS · Post by **MikeS** » 26 Oct 2009, 04:49

So I ordered a set of Lee dies last night. Thanks people.

hapkido · Post by **hapkido** » 12 Nov 2009, 10:33

I scanned the thread and could not find how much powder is recommended to reload cartridges/bullets.

Post by **f3rr37** » 12 Nov 2009, 10:36

All depends on what powder and which bullet you're loading with.

Post by **Grantness** » 12 Nov 2009, 12:16

hapkido wrote:I scanned the thread and could not find how much powder is recommended to reload cartridges/bullets.

That all depends on the type and weight of the bullet being used, the seating depth of the bullet, the type of powder, the type of primer, the type of firearm its to be shot out of, and how much velocity you are looking to get.

I dont mean to offend you or anything... but if you have to ask that sort of question, you probably shouldnt be reloading this cartridge. Spend some time educating yourself, then learn the ropes on a less sensitive cartridge before stepping up to 5.7x28.

hapkido · Post by **hapkido** » 13 Nov 2009, 06:26

Firstly, slight offense taken. Secondly, I am well aware the amount of powder depends on a number of variables and the 5.7 cartridge is more sensitive than others. I reload several other calibers but have not reloaded the 5.7 yet. Additionally, the 5.7 is not a round I want to learn through trial and error in reloading. I have reloading data for other calibers, but I have not found data on the 5.7. I suppose I could spend more time researching this data myself or use the trial and error method. I could also reverse engineer rounds from Elite or FN. I just saw this as the ideal place to locate this information and fill in the missing gaps to the reloading equipment data at the top of this thread.

gw45acp · Post by **gw45acp** » 13 Nov 2009, 06:45

Hapkido - We'd rather you be offended than having missing fingers and a blown up gun. The way you posed your question raised a red flag. You didn't ask about load recipes, just about powder. You didn't indicate which powder, what bullet, etc. That sounded like a reloading noob question to me.

There is a lot of load data for the 5.7x28 in this section. Read up and ask specific questions. I'm sure you'll like it here. There are a lot of very knowledgeable members on this forum who did the work and posted the info so browse the info and I'm sure you'll enjoy the time spent.

hapkido · Post by **hapkido** » 13 Nov 2009, 08:45

In re-reading my post it does appear a noob question, however I wanted to cut to the chase. Yes, there are several very knowledgeable people here. I was on the old site. My 1st 57 was stolen and recently I bought a new one and wanted to start reloading the cartridge. I just wish powder type/gains/bullet information was consolidated.

Post by **f3rr37** » 13 Nov 2009, 09:21

It is, it is all here in the reloading section and some of it is duplicated in the wiki.

I hate to say this, but stop bitching and use the search.

ehryk · Post by **ehryk** » 13 Nov 2009, 09:51

I use the Lyman 3 die set in my Forster co-ax press and it works great. The only one minor glitch is that the brass will fall through the priming area, so I either just hold it through the whole prime or prime from my RCBS press.

With the shoeless design of the Forster, you will need to get the additional set of shell holders for the 5.7 buth they are relatively inexpensive. One thing I REALLY like is due to the design, you dont have to worry about that little "horse shoe" stamp on the base of the brass, or damageing the case head at all for that matter.

ETA: As for my scales and powder measurer, I use the Lyman Pro 500 scale and the Lyman Pro 55 measurer. A set of weight checks would also be a wise investment. The measurer is really nice, all metal (steel and bronze) drum and cylinder. There are 3 methods of adjusting the cylinder (coarse, medium and fine) and 2 lock screws that totally prevent movement. It meters very well all powders I have used so far, including AA 2, 5 and 7, H110, HS6, H335, VV 3N38, RL 15, 17, 19, 21, and 22, Varget, TAC and more... cant remember them all lol

Post by **panzermk2** » 13 Nov 2009, 13:12

Reverse engineer our loads. GOOD luck.

Post by **Rapier1772** » 13 Nov 2009, 16:56

Especially since they use a proprietary powder which they wont tell you the name of :laugh:

Post by **Grantness** » 13 Nov 2009, 18:29

Wouldnt do you much good even if you knew the name...

Fourfivelima · Post by **Fourfivelima** » 12 Dec 2009, 15:57

Hi-just gathered up all the stuff to reload my newly-purchased FN 57. Interesting that RCBS does not make a 5.7x28mm trim plate for their Trimpro brass trimmer, but customer service refers one to Elite Ammo for purchase of same. I found once-fired brass, (Mil. & ATF), at Schartz ammo, in Salida, CO. The same primer pocket used for the .223 rifle brass with small anvil can be used to re-form the primer pockets, since they do have a slight crimp from Fiocchi.Thanks all for your inputs, we're never too old to learn.

Post by **f3rr37** » 12 Dec 2009, 19:14

You should not remove the primer crimp from the brass, it will reduce the life of your brass. Primers can easily be inserted and if it is difficult rotate the case slightly and it should go in smoothly.

ddouglas · Post by **ddouglas** » 13 Dec 2009, 16:01

Harbor Freight is offering a digital 2-quart ultrasonic cleaner for $79.95. With the 20% off coupon in my paper today that makes the price about $63. Sounds good. I note that an ultrasonic cleaner is on the list of recommended items for 5.7 case cleaning but I don't recall seeing any discussion here of how well it works, how to use it most effectively, cleaning media (solutions), time in the cleaner, etc. Before I run out and buy one, I would like to get some recommendations and tips about its use from anyone with some experience using one.

Post by **panzermk2** » 13 Dec 2009, 16:26

I part simple green to three parts water 15minutes. Air dry.

Fourfivelima · Post by **Fourfivelima** » 30 Dec 2009, 12:51

I see where my post was removed, the one regarding the failure of Elite Ammo to send me my Trimpro trim plate. Good catch, Lisa, but I noticed that at least three people saw it. You need to spend more time with the business rather than play with the computer, then people wouldn't complain. Please send me the plate.

Post by **panzermk2wife** » 30 Dec 2009, 12:53

Oh you mean this one
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6434" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It wasn't deleted it was locked. There is a difference.

Don it went out AGAIN the other day and when it gets there a signature is REQUIRED to receive it.

Tracking Number
9410 8036 9930 0002 7346 08

Received & signed for 12/31/09

Post by **f3rr37** » 30 Dec 2009, 12:58

Fourfivelima wrote:I see where my post was removed, the one regarding the failure of Elite Ammo to send me my Trimpro trim plate. Good catch, Lisa, but I noticed that at least three people saw it. You need to spend more time with the business rather than play with the computer, then people wouldn't complain. Please send me the plate.

Moved, not removed, don't be a dick. Lisa didn't touch your post, jmz5 moved it to the EA forum.

Post by **jmz5** » 30 Dec 2009, 13:14

Fourfivelima wrote:I see where my post was removed, the one regarding the failure of Elite Ammo to send me my Trimpro trim plate. Good catch, Lisa, but I noticed that at least three people saw it. You need to spend more time with the business rather than play with the computer, then people wouldn't complain. Please send me the plate.

I moved your post, it has no business being in this forum. It's wasn't Lisa, Keep being an ass and I will show you the door.

protondecay123 · Post by **protondecay123** » 09 Jan 2010, 07:12

Hi Everyone just have a couple of questions about reloading equipement that I haven't been able to chase down with some searches over the last couple of days.

I wouldn't forsee any problems, but has anyone had any problems using the Hornady Lock-n-Load single or progressive presses for reloading the cartridge?

I assume that working around the Hornady 35 gr VMax data would be a good starting point but has Anyone used the .224 Speer 33 gr TNT bullet and/or have any reload data on it?

Thanks. :thumb:

Post by **jmz5** » 09 Jan 2010, 12:53

Hornady will custom make a shellplate for your progressive, but it takes a while to get one made.

The Keymaster · Post by **The Keymaster** » 09 Jan 2010, 15:15

Hornady will make the shell plate, BUT you must do the sizing and decapping on a single stage press with the number 37 shell holder. The hole in the shall plate that allows the primer to fall into the disposal tube is too large, and you will damage the brass. I bought the shell plate, and they made me aware of the issue before I bought it. It works fine for the rest of the operation. If I am working near max load, I so the entire process single stage so I can validate each charge. For my range loads, I use the progressive.

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 05 Feb 2010, 10:57

can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28

DeepSeaPete · Post by **DeepSeaPete** » 05 Feb 2010, 13:19

I see no reason the Forster Co-Ax wouldn't work. It uses the same standard threads for accepting reloading dies. You may have problems with the shellholder jaws, but I've heard of a shellholder adapter plate that allows the use of a typical shellholder.

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 06 Feb 2010, 05:49

Thanks deep sea pete I am the person who posted that question about the forster co-ax press, you mentioned a shell holder plate for the 5.7x28 (adapter) : for the forster as well if you or any one knows of/or can steer me to it I would greatly appreciate that as well, Again Thank you very much. Carsfor

DeepSeaPete · Post by **DeepSeaPete** » 06 Feb 2010, 07:02

The shellholder adapter plate is for use with typical shellholders from Lee, RCBS, or Hornady, and is made by Forster. I found it in the Accessories section of their website for $19.60. It's item AP1000.

Here's a link to it:
http://www.forsterproducts.com/catalog. ... did=627373" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 06 Feb 2010, 08:24

Thanks again to you (deep sea pete)!!I just purchased them from forster products because my plan is to purchase a forster co-ax very soon, because what I have read about it, is( very positive ),as far as a good reloader, and I can get the press at a fairly reasonable price. Carsfor

Lekim · Post by **Lekim** » 06 Feb 2010, 14:25

hey all,

another newb here...am new to reloading for the 57 but have been reloading for pistol and a coupla of rifle calibers for a while.

been reading wiki, the various posts n stuff to get a leg up. i was intrigued by the use of ultrasonic cleaners so i researched and found that harbor freight has their 2 1/2 qt heated US cleaner for $59.99. if you print the internet ad and bring it to your local storefront, they should honor the online price.

have been testing it out on some very dirty 45acp and it does a fairly decent job with a bit of dish soap and cream of tartar.

glad to be part of the group, am look forward to learning/sharing tips...

lekim :cya:

Toynut · Post by **Toynut** » 06 Feb 2010, 20:50

What does the cream of tartar do to the cleaning solution? Thicken it? :ponder:

Lekim · Post by **Lekim** » 07 Feb 2010, 07:31

Toynut wrote:What does the cream of tartar do to the cleaning solution? Thicken it? :ponder:

a legitimate question...i think? :ponder: that is unless you're messin with me in which case :lmao:

cream of tartar or better known as potassium hydrogen tartrate, an acid salt that has a number of uses including being used to clean brass.

cream of tartar is obtained when tartaric acid is half neutralized with potassium hydroxide, transforming it into a salt. adding some to your cleaning solution forms a very mild acid which really helps brighten up the brass, cutting thru that sooty build-up inside and out of the case.

I haven't tried it on the FN lacquer as yet, not having a UV lite for pre/post inspection but when i do, i'll let ya know how the meringue turns out. :drool:

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 07 Feb 2010, 08:27

Hi lekim, I was just wondering are you into chemistry/chemist, and if so why is it #1 called cream of tartar and,#2 if it does have an effect on the FN laquer would that be very advisable to do. Carfors :ponder:

Lekim · Post by **Lekim** » 07 Feb 2010, 11:42

Hey carsfor,

Nope, I'm not a chemist but chemistry was probably some of the most fun and interesting classes I had in college. I did seriously think about it as a career many years ago.

So, I can't explain why they call it cream of tartar...it's a deactivated form of tartaric acid. After tartaric acid forms, it is mixed with potassium hydroxide to neutralize the acid. This mixture results in cream of tartar, which is not actually a cream, but a crystalline powder. The addition of water to cream of tartar displaces some of the KOH (potassium hydroxide), resulting in a weak organic acid...not overly agressive.

Cream of tartar is an excellent cleaning agent. Mixing cream of tartar and lemon juice results in a great copper cleaner. Hot water or hydrogen peroxide mixed with cream of tartar can help remove stains from aluminum pans. It's a natural compound found in many fruits and the main acid in wine (I didn't know that...I always thought it was tannic acid in wine, you know they always talk about the tannins...). The nice thing about it is that when you're done with it, you pour it down the drain and not have to worry about it causing a toxic nightmare or killing fish or any of that hazwaste stuff.....

Read more: Tartaric Acid - The Chemistry Of Tartaric Acid, Uses Of Tartaric Acid http://science.jrank.org/pages/6698/Tar ... z0esddhx5Q" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had some very dirty, tarnished brass and decided to try the cream of tartar versus hours and hours and hours of tumbling which wasn't removing the carbon. My results have yielded quicker cleaning, the US cleaner cleans the soot (I find that letting the brass soak in hot water first before cleaning helps loosen up the carbon deposits), the cream of tartar shines the brass (removes oxidation) and a quick tumble in corncob makes it look practically factory new. It sure helps with sorting and inspecting...

As I mentioned in my previous post, I haven't tried this yet with the lacquered FN brass until I get a UV light and test it out. When I do, I'll post my results.

Lekim

rickys2 · Post by **rickys2** » 07 Feb 2010, 12:19

WOW thats something new..... I use simple green and vinegar in my mix

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 07 Feb 2010, 13:00

Thanks again; that explanation certainly cleared up a muddy situation.

Sincerely,Carsfor

cvande · Post by **cvande** » 07 Feb 2010, 13:05

Lekim,

That is probably one of the coolest tips yet. I'll have to try that out vs my current method.

Lekim · Post by **Lekim** » 07 Feb 2010, 13:16

rickys2 wrote:WOW thats something new..... I use simple green and vinegar in my mix

:huh: WOW...vinegar really? Did you ever do that experiment in school as a kid where you stuck a penny in a container of Coca-cola?...and it dissolved it?

I'm sure you know that brass is basically an alloy of copper and zinc...yes, there are different formulations but all brass has copper as a big part of it's overall composition.

Vinegar's primary component is acetic acid (ph~2.4). Lemon juice (citric acid) is even more acidic with a ph less than 2...so I would think that acetic acid could be overly agressive depending on how much you dilute it. I thought I had read somewhere in this forum that if one left their brass in the cleaning solution for too long (simple green/vinegar?), it turned black. So why does the brass turn black? Is it something in the simple green or is the vinegar attacking the copper or is the zinc that's on the losing end? Does simple green/water alone have the same issue with discoloring the brass ? :ponder:

Again, I'm not a chemist...but I live with one, well sorta...she's a pharm grad student so I bounce my ideas offa her. So far, the cream of tartar is working well. Of course, being an engineer, the axiom goes something like;
if it ain't broken...can you improve it? :thumb:

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 07 Feb 2010, 14:20

Sorry lekim, I went to Catholic school and in high school I was academic had very little use for the simple things in life like basic chemistry I had to concentrate mostly on the complex problems to get my scholarships I even failed biology so I ended up in the army where the only chemistry I used was to get along with my sergeant after that a family and then finally a divorce and so on, and so forth, I have said all this just to say I was an average guy, who is now happy to be finally able to do what I want to! and now I rely on people like you to show me the way, hopefully, I can grasp all this so I can do a better job at trying to reload a few different types of cartridges. all in all I am very greatful to have found this site it has already given me a great deal of information and thank you again,Carfor signing off for now. 10-4 good buddy :thumb:

Post by **Rapier1772** » 07 Feb 2010, 15:51

Lekim wrote:
rickys2 wrote:Of course, being an engineer, the axiom goes something like; if it ain't broken...can you improve it? :thumb:

I thought the axiom went "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is." :laugh:

Toynut · Post by **Toynut** » 09 Feb 2010, 10:08

Thanks for the tip and info
on the cream of tartar. I always Thought it was a starch ofsome kind and have some in the kitchen cabinet for cooking purposes and making whipped cream and such :ponder:
BTW,
How much of it do you put in the solution per quart?

Lekim · Post by **Lekim** » 09 Feb 2010, 17:11

i still haven't perfected the mixture yet (i have once fired 57 brass in transit...then i can dial the proportions in). rite now, i've been using 1/2 tsp/4 cups of hot water plus some dawn dish soap (a few drops). i have noticed that after running 1 load of brass thru the US cleaner, you really need to start another fresh batch of solution if cleaning additional cases...and it really doesn't do that good of a job cleaning the primer pockets out. when i get some pics taken, i'll post showing some .223 i cleaned up last weekend. you can see a difference with the naked eye, not sure how that'll translate to the camera tho'. :ponder: i've got some other uncoated brass that i can play with to try and get the amount of cream of tartar optimized (for uncoated cases).

i still need to get a black lite to make sure this concoction won't harm the lacquer coating on the 57 brass....hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

thanks for asking :cya:

lekim

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 15 Feb 2010, 12:21

Hi wollychop, I have a question? When reloading the 5.7x28, the reloading specs, do you have a suggestion for the case length, and or the powder grain amounts, or do you know of a manual that has all this info. thanks in advance, Carsfor :huh:

Post by **Rapier1772** » 15 Feb 2010, 15:06

carsfor, have you checked out Forum wiki at the top of the page? There is a reloading section with all the specs. Also there are plenty of reloading threads with the info, just use the search function

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 16 Feb 2010, 08:14

Hi every one, I think we can add another bullet to this list, its the barnes solid banded 45 gr. I was told it is a very good addition for reloading the 5.7. Sincerely, Carmsfor

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 16 Feb 2010, 08:31

To rapier1772 thanks for the info it was and is very helpful. Carmsfor :clap:

ehryk · Post by **ehryk** » 23 Feb 2010, 03:18

carsfor wrote:can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28

I use the Forster and except for priming, it works great. I use either my RCBS single stage or my hand primer for priming. You will have to buy the extra shell holder set due to the small size though.

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 23 Feb 2010, 04:04

Thank you so much ehryk I really appreciate the reply and one more question to you about this what do you use to clean the cases or have, you been using new ones, I am up in the air about a sonic cleaner . Carsfor :clap:

ehryk · Post by **ehryk** » 23 Feb 2010, 17:01

I just do a very lite tumbeling before and after resizing (yes, I know its not good for the coating). Just enough to get the grime off before resizing and get the lube off after.

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 24 Feb 2010, 04:39

Hi ehryk, thanks again for your input, and I believe it does a good job the way you do it, but my question was about the sonic cleaner,wether or not to invest in one, or to look into something like a sidewinder type tumbler. Sincerely, Carsfor :ponder:

OnyxSkyDV · Post by **OnyxSkyDV** » 05 Mar 2010, 14:24

ehryk wrote:
carsfor wrote:can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28
I use the Forster and except for priming, it works great. I use either my RCBS single stage or my hand primer for priming. You will have to buy the extra shell holder set due to the small size though.

What about the Forster does not work well for priming the 5.7? (I'm thinking about picking this one up for a single stage press)

Onyx

hank44mag · Post by **hank44mag** » 10 Mar 2010, 20:01

Hello, I'm looking to start reloading the five seven but I need a shell plate for the Hornaday Pro-jector progressive press. Does anybody know where I can have one made? Thank you.

The Keymaster · Post by **The Keymaster** » 10 Mar 2010, 23:19

hank44mag wrote:Hello, I'm looking to start reloading the five seven but I need a shell plate for the Hornaday Pro-jector progressive press. Does anybody know where I can have one made? Thank you.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4919&start=0&hilit=lonnie" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Check out this thread.

ehryk · Post by **ehryk** » 13 Mar 2010, 11:17

OnyxSkyDV wrote:
ehryk wrote:
carsfor wrote:can a forster co-ax press be used to reload the 5.7x28
I use the Forster and except for priming, it works great. I use either my RCBS single stage or my hand primer for priming. You will have to buy the extra shell holder set due to the small size though.

What about the Forster does not work well for priming the 5.7? (I'm thinking about picking this one up for a single stage press)

Onyx

The hole that the priming ram goes through is the same size as the 5.7 brass. Also, the adjustable tabs for holding the brass in place don't contact enough of the rim and will rip it off on the up stroke.

OnyxSkyDV · Post by **OnyxSkyDV** » 15 Mar 2010, 13:04

Thanks for the reply Ehryk, that makes alot of sense.

I have a sinclair hand priming tool on the way now.

Onyx

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 28 Apr 2010, 09:47

to laughing boy and the rest of his know it all cohorts please check f3rr37 on his list of reloading equipment for the 5.7x28. Sincerely ,carsfor

Charliemack · Post by **Charliemack** » 20 May 2010, 15:44

What can someone expect to pay in total to start reloading these rounds from having no equipment, looking for a rough estimate, nothing specific. I have some friends that reload their ammo but I have never messed with it.

cvande · Post by **cvande** » 20 May 2010, 19:25

Here's what I started with. There is a more complete list and options in the Wiki. Take your time with the Wiki. Everything you'll want to know about the 5.7 is here somewhere. Look around. w/index.php/Reloading" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Reloading ABCs: http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/#ABC%20 ... -4_8-16-32" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $16.99
Single stage Lee Press and kit: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=121744" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $104.00
Dies: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=261573" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $34.99

Blue tips from Elite Ammo 250 - http://www.eliteammunition.net/catalog/ ... 751507.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ~30.00
Powder ~$20 lb.
primers ~$30/1000
Once fired brass from Scharch: http://www.scharch.com/proddetail.php?prod=2S5.7X8MY-M" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $43.00/1000

About $300 bucks not including the little stuff
Case length gage: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=266946" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Trimmer: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=515804" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; $16.99
Trimmer cutter and lock stud: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=476992" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; 4.99

--cvande

Charliemack · Post by **Charliemack** » 20 May 2010, 19:57

Thanks for taking your time to answer my question.

That really isnt as bad as I thought it would be. I realize it could be give or take 100 probable depending on little stuff

mbutler37 · Post by **mbutler37** » 11 Jul 2010, 06:08

I am using the Hornady LNL AP with the custom plate from Hornady. It works really well. I just added the automatic case feeder and am having difficulty getting it to work for the 5.7 It keeps double and triple feeding. Has anyone had any experience with this?

bpasky · Post by **bpasky** » 14 Jul 2010, 04:52

carsfor wrote:Hi ehryk, thanks again for your input, and I believe it does a good job the way you do it, but my question was about the sonic cleaner,wether or not to invest in one, or to look into something like a sidewinder type tumbler. Sincerely, Carsfor :ponder:

I am interested in a Sonic Cleaner as well. Is this a good alternative to simple green solution? Also, on the east coast, I couldn't find "Simple Green". However, I did find "Mean Green". No joke. Is this okay to use? I understand that the coating on the cases help to aid on the P90 magazine. What if your only intent to reload is for the FiveseveN? Is the sensitive cleaning really required if you are only reloading for the FsN pistol?

Post by **panzermk2** » 14 Jul 2010, 06:25

bpasky wrote:
carsfor wrote:Hi ehryk, thanks again for your input, and I believe it does a good job the way you do it, but my question was about the sonic cleaner,wether or not to invest in one, or to look into something like a sidewinder type tumbler. Sincerely, Carsfor :ponder:

I am interested in a Sonic Cleaner as well. Is this a good alternative to simple green solution? Also, on the east coast, I couldn't find "Simple Green". However, I did find "Mean Green". No joke. Is this okay to use? I understand that the coating on the cases help to aid on the P90 magazine. What if your only intent to reload is for the FiveseveN? Is the sensitive cleaning really required if you are only reloading for the FsN pistol?

"Mean Green" from what I have read on it is concentrated "Simple Green" I would cut it at least one part "Mean Green" to 6 parts water.

paberglund · Post by **paberglund** » 22 Aug 2010, 16:47

One more category: bullet case

A .38/357 Magnum case will hold the 5.7x28mm round perfectly. If you just want something for the empty cases, you can use the .380/9mm case. I've used Cabela's or MGM brand cases for this.

04WRX · Post by **04WRX** » 24 Dec 2010, 01:19

Hey going to start reloading the 5.7 and want to buy a press just for that. I was looking into the lee turret press and was wondering if 5.7 parts are made for it or what ones work. I've been reloading for a few years now so I'm aware of the other tid bits I'm going to need but any help or info would be great. Thanks ahead of time any input would be awesome.

carsfor · Post by **carsfor** » 24 Dec 2010, 03:32

I would advise you to go to the forum archive or the wiki I believe there is a complete list of things that you can use and as far as I know elite ammunition has a good list of loaded and reloading equipment Sincerely, Carsfor

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